Letter from the President
In Search of the Perfect Shave!
Except for a brief stint during my sophomore year in college, I've shaved just about every day for the last 43 years. Most men shave for the same reason I do: To present themselves in the best possible light, both in their jobs and in their personal lives. Your face is what people see first. For thousands of years men have asked themselves the same question! To Shave or Not to Shave? A man can expect to spend almost 3500 hours in his lifetime removing over 28 feet of beard. For many men taking the day off from shaving on the weekends is seen as a luxury but - - shaving does not have to be a chore!
A History of Shaving
Early cave paintings from the stone age show us prehistoric men (and women too) scraping their hair away with crude sharpened weapons such as flint, shells and stones and plucking out hairs using two shells as tweezers. The earliest shaving razors made from flint were discovered as far back as 30,000 B.C. Flint provided an extremely sharp edge for shaving but became dull rather quickly. Thanks to the development of metalworking, permanent metal (such as copper) razors began showing up in India and Egypt around 3000 BC. Ancient Egyptians considered it unsophisticated to possess any visible hair at all. This trend went to such an extreme that the entire head was shaved, resulting in the use of wigs. During the time of Alexander the Great, shaving became widespread, reaching Greece and eventually Rome. Alexander was so conscious of his appearance that he would not enter battle without a preliminary shave. Subsequently a short haircut and a smooth face were considered necessary as well as aesthetically pleasing. As the Greek and Roman civilizations experimented with bronze, copper and iron razors they also adopted the ancient Egyptians' custom of shaving their entire beard and head. This wasn't for aesthetics, but as a defensive measure for soldiers preventing the enemy from grasping their hair in hand-to-hand combat. Throughout most of the world, men of unshaven societies began to be known as barbarians meaning "un-barbered". With more advanced metalworking in the Bronze Age came more advanced razors made from iron, bronze and even gold. Rome and Greece developed iron blades with a long handle and developed the shape of the 'open' razor. With the improvements in manufacturing these blades were really sharp and capable of re-sharpening. These razors were called "cut-throats" and required considerable skill to use. During the 16th century a trip to the barber could result in more than a trim and a shave. Barbers during these times did the majority of surgeries including bloodletting and teeth pulling and even some primitive operations for cataracts, gallstones and hernias. King Henry V111 was a patient of one of these barber-surgeons, Thomas Vicary. Vicary persuaded the king to declare those of his profession officially "surgeons". On July 12, 1540 King Henry VIII established the United Barber-Surgeon Company. This group's symbol , the familiar red and white barber's pole, signified bandaging and bleeding.
In the Middle Ages shaving surged in popularity as women began shaving their heads to accommodate fashionable headdresses. Men were expected to possess neatly trimmed facial hair or none at all. In 1770 French barber JEAN-JACQUES PERRET wrote a treatise called "The Art of Learning to Shave Oneself (La Pogonotomie)", which gave men advice for using various shaving products and equipment. His book was also the first to originally propose the idea of a safety razor (a razor where the skin is protected from all but the very edge of the blade). It wasn't until the 19th century however that the first safety razor was actually invented. The idea of a use-once, disposable blade came from the American King Camp Gillette in 1895. However, producing a paper-thin piece of steel with a sharpened edge strong enough to remove a beard was a near technical impossibility at that time. Although patents were filed in 1901, it was not until 1903 that Gillette was able to get the technical assistance and financial backing he needed to go into business. This began Gillette's legendary climb to the top as king of the U.S. shaving market, thanks to his shaver's high quality and low cost. In 1903, his total sales were 51 razors and 168 blades. By 1908 Gillette was making 300,000 razors and 14 million blades. Gillette also had a keen approach to marketing. During World War 1, Gillette worked out a mega-deal with the U.S. Armed Forces, which provided his safety razor and blades to every enlisted man or officer on their way to Europe as a regular part of their standard issue gear. This created a tremendous worldwide promotion and publicity opportunity for Gillette's company and products. The concept of a powered razor was unknown until its invention by the Canadian Jacob Schick in the 1930's. Schick was obsessed by the notion that a man could extend his life to 120 by shaving correctly everyday. While the electric shaver has gained immense popularity due to its ease of use and speed at getting the job done, the downside is that it requires the skin to be dry in order to function and it is very harsh on the skin. During the 1960's, the one-piece plastic completely disposable razor by Bic was introduced. With the invention of disposable blades men could be guaranteed of a close shave every time.
Women and Shaving
Since the beginning of recorded time women have also been removing their hair. By 3000 BC women were removing body hair by making their own depilatory creams that contained bizarre combinations of potentially lethal ingredients, such as arsenic. Roman women removed hair with razors, pumice stones and homemade depilatory creams made from medicinal drugs. They also used tweezers to pluck their eyebrows. In Greece, the woman removed hair from their legs by singeing it off with a lamp. Many women in Europe from the Middle Ages through the early 1800's started shaving their heads completely bald as well as their eyebrows to accommodate electorate headdresses using whatever the latest pulling, shaving, or depilatory techniques were available at the time. Depilatories continue even today with contemporary products such as Nair, introduced in 1940. Why Women Shave Their Underarms Today.
It all began with the May,1915 edition of Harper's Bazaar magazine that featured a model sporting the latest fashion. She wore a sleeveless evening gown that exposed, for the first time in fashion, her bare shoulders, and her (shaved) armpits. Shocking at first, this soon caught on. At the same time a marketing executive with the Wilkinson Sword Company, which made razor blades for men, designed a campaign to convince women that underarm hair was unfeminine. By 1917 the sales of razor blades doubled as women conformed to this feminine stereotype of shaving under their arms. This trend continues to this day in much of the western world. So if you are dissatisfied by the results of your shaving and especially by the state of your skin - after shaving - read on. If you are looking for how to get the perfect shave you came to the right place.
Rules for the Perfect Shave!
Got a shaving question: write to shmay@labodytools.com Steve H. May, Ph.D. Steven H. May, PhD. President of BodyTools, Inc. is a psychologist with over 25 years experience in the health and fitness field. Dr. May is a co-founder of the national health care company Health Management Dr. May is a co-founder of the national health care company Health Management Resources where he currently serves as Director of Behavioral Medicine.
The Outside Track
F . A . Q . O n G r o o m i n g
Q: Growing up I always watched my father shave with an electric razor. Now I use a razor blade. Which is better?
A: There is no comparison (sorry dad). Wet shaving with a high quality shave cream and a fresh blade will always give you a closer, cleaner shave. While the electric shaver has gained immense popularity due to its ease of use and speed at getting the job done, the downside is that it requires the skin to be dry in order to function and this is very harsh on the skin.
Q: What causes razor bumps and how can I avoid getting them?
A: Normal hair grow to the surface of the skin in a tube called a follicle, without touching the skin itself. If your follicles grow out at oblique angles to the skin's surface, shaving can cause sharp ends on the hairs. If the sharp ends penetrate the skin the body reacts as if to any foreign object causing the skin to get inflamed, infected and red. Curly hair has a natural tendency of curling back on itself and getting caught in the skin, thus increasing the chances of ingrown hairs. Ingrown hairs can also occur when skin is so dry and tight that the skin itself acts as a barrier, and the hair gets stuck in its own follicle and continues to grow underneath the skin. Sebum, the natural oily secretion of the skin's sebaceous glands, then starts to accumulate in the closed pore and surrounds the ingrown hair, forming an unsightly and infected pimple. If the hair doesn't come out within a few days, the accumulation of sebum causes a cyst-like mass in the follicle, trapping the hair even more. How to prevent razor bumps: A man's morning shaving ritual is the first area where men make mistakes. Put a damp, warm (not hot) towel on the beard for a couple of minutes. Water saturated hair is 70% easier to cut and gives you a closer shave. Hot water, however, will irritate the skin as will many of the irritating ingredients found in today's shave creams and pre-shave products. This irritation can cause the hair follicle and skin to swell, forcing the hair up and away from the skin (supposedly allowing for a closer shave). However this swelling causes some of the hair to be hidden by the swollen follicle and skin, preventing the razor from getting close to the base of the hair. Because some of the facial hair is hidden beneath swollen skin (which temporarily gives the impression of a close shave) the stubble will have a harder time navigating its way back out. If the hair begins to grow (which it does almost immediately) before the swelling is reduced, the likelihood of ingrown hairs is increased. And since you really didn't get to the base of the hair that "5 o'clock shadow" will appear more So use a warm (not hot) moist towel on your beard to get the water into the hair follicle. So razor bumps are simply caused by ingrown hairs. Since the bumps are actually ingrown hairs, shaving in the direction of hair growth can help. If you aren't already, switch to shaving after showering ---warm water also encourages ingrown hairs to pop out.
Q: So what causes razor burn then?
A: Razor burn is most easily caused by skin irritation and inflammation from the friction of shaving or can be "product burn" from irritating skin care ingredients in your shave products a razor gliding over the face can abrade the skin enough to cause your whole face to feel like too many layers of skin have been removed. Innocent-looking after-shave lotions with irritating ingredients can wreck havoc when splashed over that broken skin, leaving your skin red, burning, and irritated. Later, if in-grown hairs occur the bumps they cause may itch and burn.
Got a grooming question? Write to Al Wines at awines@labodytools.com
Al Wines is CEO of BodyTools and draws on expertise amassed over a 25-year career as men's fragrance and cosmetics buyer and merchandising executive for three of the country's major department store chains.
BluePrint for the Perfect Shave
If you are dissatisfied by the results of your shaving and especially by the state of your skin after shaving-you came to the right place. We have outlined a simple Daily Regimen to follow that will give you:
The Perfect Shave!
Step #1: Wet shaving.
Electric shaving is harsher on the skin because it requires the hairs to be dry and brittle to get a close shave. The electric shaving process also strips the skin of its natural oils, especially when pre-shave lotions are used since these contain alcohol and other astringent (drying) agents). So for a closer and more comfortable shave move to WET SHAVING!
Step #2: There is no substitute for warm water and a good blade.
There is no substitute for warm water and a good blade. The key element to a comfortable close shave is making sure your skin and beard have been softened up before you start to shave. So give your face lots of warm water or steam. This softens the bristles and opens up the pores on the skin. (If the water is too hot it will dry out your skin.) The tensile strength of saturated hair is about 1/4 to 1/3 that of dry hair-a factor that contributes to a more comfortable shave-and makes it 70% easier to cut. The best time to shave is right after a shower or bath, which will prepare the face for a much less painful, and much closer shave. This will also help promote a longer razor life.
The brand name of the blade is far less important than the state it is in. A blunt blade will do nothing for you at all. You will not get a close shave and you will end up with redness and blotches on your face and neck. As soon as you feel a blade is not performing properly, replace it. Remember, the state of your blade is far more important to getting a good, close shave and leaving your skin feeling and looking great than the cost of the razor.
A good rule of thumb: use a new blade every week.
Step #3: Use the Proper shave preparation and apply it correctly.
Look at what is in the products; are all the ingredients really useful, helpful and good for you? An optimum choice is to use products with gentle cleansers and other ingredients that will keep the skin moist and soft while promoting moisture retention. Since lather is created by surfactants (detergents), the more lather that's in a product the more it will dry out your skin. Thus lather is irrelevant--a lot of foam does not mean a better shave. And since shaving itself dries out the skin, you don't want to make the problem worse. Ensure that a thin layer of your shave preparation is thoroughly massaged into the beard in an even pattern. This will help keep the moisture on the skin and in the beard. If possible leave the shave cream on a minute before you begin to shave. You also want to be able to see what you are doing. If the shave cream is too thick the razor will skip and jump over spots.
Step #4: Use the proper shaving method.
Shave using short strokes and rinse the blade often in hot water. Be careful not to press too hard, especially around the neck. To get a very close shave, carefully re-shave your beard again the grain. You may need to re-apply shave cream before doing this. Rinse face thoroughly after shaving with some cooler water.
Step # 5: Heal and Protect!
Always end your shave with an after shave balm to re-moisturize, heal and protect the skin. Remember: what you have just done is to scrape away layers of the skin, dead cells and natural oils from the skins' surface. Analysis of shaving debris shows almost as much skin as hair. So there is a real need to re-moisturize and heal the skin. Also, your face is one of the parts of your body that gets constant exposure to UV radiation from the sun. So find a good after-shave moisturizer that can also soothe, heal and protect your face from the daily impact of dirt grime and the elements. It should contain potent anti-inflammatory ingredients such as acetylsalicylic acid (stabilized aspirin) for irritated skin that is able to alleviate the redness and razor bumps/burn. And look for at least an SPF 15 product that also provides complete UVA/UVB protection.
So find a good after-shave moisturizer that can also soothe, heal and protect your face from the daily impact of dirt grime and the elements. It should contain potent anti-inflammatory ingredients such as acetylsalicylic acid (stabilized aspirin) for irritated skin that is able to alleviate the redness and razor bumps/burn.
Got a shaving question: write to shmay@labodytools.com
Steve H. May, Ph.D. Steven H. May, PhD. President of BodyTools, Inc. is a psychologist with over 25 years experience in the health and fitness field. Dr. May is a co-founder of the national health care company Health Management Dr. May is a co-founder of the national health care company Health Management Resources where he currently serves as Director of Behavioral Medicine.
Stuff you need to know
The Fountain of Youth may be as close as the kitchen!
Putting vitamins on your skin might not help you stay young but putting them in your body will. An overwhelming amount of research says nutrition plays an extremely important role in protecting the body's skin from the effects of sun damage and ageing. And since over 90% of the ageing effects of the skin come from sun damage you do the math. Start eating. How does all this happen?
Cell damage from free radicals, tiny molecules produced when a cell converts oxygen into energy, is responsible for most of the effects we call ageing. Antioxidants, produced by the body and reinforced from anti-oxidant foods, protect the cells from damage by seeking out and neutralizing these free radicals. BUT these defenses are never 100% efficient. And it is the accumulation of the un-repaired cellular damage that fuels the aging process which can lead to the development of cancer, heart disease, cataracts and premature skin ageing including: oil producing glands becoming less active, drier and sagging skin, and wrinkles. Exposure to UV radiation accelerates the normal ageing process of the skin and also damages the genetic structure of skin cells, which contributes to the development of skin cancer. Cigarette smoking can have the same effect. So boosting your body's antioxidant defense is critical in helping reduce the effects of ageing. For example: A study in the Journal of the American College of Nutrition, 2001; 20:71-80 showed that A diet rich in fruits, vegetables and unsaturated fats may ward off wrinkles by boosting the skins natural defenses against sun damage. In the study people who ate more of the foods that are universally recommended for good health (olive oil, nuts, green leafy vegetables, beans, and multigrain breads) had smoother skin. The authors speculate that certain foods offer skin protection due to their high levels of antioxidants such as vitamins A, C and E. The skin they note is a "major target of oxidative stress." And recently in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry June 9, 2004 comes the latest study where researchers from the USDA measured the antioxidant levels of more than 100 common foods. Those that packed the greatest antioxidant punch were:
- Small red beans
- Wild blueberries
- Red kidney beans
- Pinto beans
- Cultivated blueberries
- Cranberries
- Cooked artichoke hearts
- Blackberries
- Prunes
- Raspberries
People are living longer lives today and age-related illnesses, such as blindness can significantly impact an otherwise healthy quality of life. Your eyes can be particularly susceptible to disease as we age. Macular degeneration is the leading cause of vision loss among people 65 and older. There are no effective treatments for this condition. The first large-scale look at diet and the prevention of macular degeneration was reported in the Archives of Ophthalmology, June 2004. It included 77,562 women and 40,866 men who were followed for 12-18 years Findings:
"Those who ate three or more servings of fruit a day had a 36% reduction in risk of developing macular degeneration."
So weather its skin care or total body care the message is still the same: fill you plate with fruits and vegetables.
Possibly the best anti-aging strategy of all is regular exercise.
Indeed, with the possible exception of diet modification, we know of no single intervention with greater promise than physical exercise to reduce the risk for virtually all chronic diseases simultaneously.
Journal of Applied Physiology, February 2000
Inactivity has been linked to over fifteen chronic diseases and other health conditions. According to biologist Frank Booth of the University of Missouri, Columbia, simple inactivity is responsible for about 250,000 deaths each year in the United States! IN this first study, bouts of exercise are good protectors against heart disease as longer workouts men who expended 1000 to 2000 calories a week in exercise whether it was during one or two long sessions or many short ones had a 20% lower coronary risk than men who exercised less. It's the total number of calories expended each week that is most important.
British journal of sports medicine march, 2001
A new study has shown that physically fit people are less likely to die of cancer, including cancers related to smoking, even if they smoke. "fitness may provide protection against cancer mortality" the authors stated.
Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise, May 2002
And finally, in two studies showing it's never too late:
Study 1: Researchers found that Walking Protects Against Cognitive Decline (memory loss, mental function). While studying 5,925 women over aged 65 and followed for 6-8 years the researchers discovered that those that walked 2 miles/day compared to I/2 mile/week had a 30% less chance of cognitive decline The researchers said "We found that for every extra mile walked per week there was a 13 percent less chance of cognitive decline a little walking is good, and more is better."
Arch Inter Med 2001;161:1703-1708
Study 2 followed 7,553 women over the age of 65 for 5.7 years. The findings: Compared to those who remained sedentary, those who increased their PA levels from less than two miles per week to an average of 8.2 miles per week had a 48% lower risk of mortality from all causes.
JAMA 2003;289: 2379-2386
By the Numbers
- The average man has 20 square feet of skin that weighs about 10 pounds.
- Each square inch of skin contains as many as: 650 sweat glands, 20 blood vessels, more than 1000 nerve endings, and has up to 20 million bacteria on its surface.
- Skin is the thickest (about 1/5 of an inch) on the upper back, the eyelids are the thinnest, which are only 1/50th inch thick.
- Fingernails grow about 1 millimeter every 10 to 15 days.
- Millions of dead skin cells are replaced each day with new ones.
It's your Body. Take Care Of It!
There is a new wrinkle in the old question of why smokers' faces are prematurely lined. A report suggest smoking switches on a gene involved in destroying collagen, the structural protein that gives skin its elasticity In this new study scientist from St. John's Institute of Dermatology in London found that this gene, the one implicated in wrinkles from sunbathing, was highly active in smokers and silent in nonsmokers.Lancet Medical Journal March 29, 2001
Speaking of wrinkles people with smooth faces run a higher risk than those with wrinkles of developing the most common form of skin cancer.-Basal cell carcinoma. But Sun exposure is strongly associate with wrinkling and sun exposure raise the risk of skin cancer (but other forms of skin cancer including the deadliest: melanoma.)
Achieves of Dermatology June 14, 2001
And finally, speaking of the sun damage to the skin Stated that tanning lamps can double the risk of some common skin cancers including basal cell and squamous cell skin cancers. It may actually be worse to "get a little bit each day" than it is to get an infrequent sunburn.
Journal of the National Cancer Institute Feb 7, 2002
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